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When assemblying your new Charger electric bike, plan to install tire liners and thorn-resistant tubes. Some folks wait until they get their first flat, squeeze in some Slime, pump up the air pressure, and go for a ride. If the Slime doesn't seal the puncture, then they use this procedure to add tire liners and TR tubes. [Editor's note: I'm one of those people.]

A bike stand to hold the bike up makes this procecure easier.

Important Note:

Throughout this procedure, the right cover panel is shown installed on the bike. After several attempts, we've concluded that removing the panel makes the most sense. Many folks have problems with the pinion gear when removing and installing the two chains. Removing the side panels effectively eliminates those problems.

If the motor's power chain gets too loose, it will fall off the pinion gear. If it goes to the outside, it tends to jam up. If it falls to the inside, it will hang on the pinion gear's shaft.

In addition to the pedal chain, there's a motor chain, brake cable, and (not visible in this photo) a gear-shifting cable which must be disconnected before removing the rear wheel.

(Click on photo for enlarged view.)

To loosen the motor drive chain, unscrew the tension-adjusting bolt until it's nearly out. This allows you to reach behind the gray plastic side panel to pull the chain out and off the large sprocket at the rear hub. (Removing the side panel takes extra time but will make this easier. After removing the screws that hold the panel in place, rotate the pedal crank to the 5 o'clock position so you can work the panel off the bike.) Leave the drive chain on the motor sprocket (or you'll have to remove the gray side panel to replace it).
(Click on photo for enlarged view.)

Once free of the large sprocket at the rear hub, the motor drive chain can be pulled to the rear and over the side panel to rest out of the way. Now, you can loosen the axle nuts with a 15mm wrench; unscrew them until they're nearly off.

(Click on photo for enlarged view.)

The brake cable can be easily disconnected by removing the cable retaining nut from the brake lever arm; a small spring-clip holds it in place. The brake housing is held to the frame with a 10mm screw (shown with hex/Phillips head) and a Nylock nut; remove them.

If you ever adjust the rear brake cable lock nut, make sure the grooved washer seats properly on the cable, or else it will deform and require replacement (or filing for it to fit back on). (Click on photo for enlarged view.)

The brake cable housing ends with a machined piece that loosely slides into a receiver in the brake housing. After slipping it out, all connections on the left side should be free.

(Click on photo for enlarged view.)

Don't slacken the cable retaining nut (faces out) for the Nexus 7-speed hub when removing the rear wheel. You need only push the spring-loaded "key-way cassette" (that holds the cable retaining nut) in a counter-clockwise direction. Then, with your other hand, twist the end of the cable in the same direction (counter-clockwise) to allow the nut to slide out of the key-way.

(Click on photo for enlarged view.)

Unscrew the nut(s) on the "banjo" tensioning bolt until it's nearly off. Pull it away from the frame so it hangs freely. [Editor's note: these photos don't show the "banjo" bolt. Click here to see them.] Now, you can push the axle forward to create slack in the pedal chain. Reach inside the gray plastic panel and lift the chain off the big pedal sprocket; let it hand inside the sprocket on the frame's bottom bracket.

(Click on photo for enlarged view.)

Pull the pedal chain back and out over the frame to hang out of the way. Now there's nothing holding the wheel to the frame, so slide it back and off.

(Click on photo for enlarged view.)

Re-assembly starts with replacing the wheel onto the frame.

(Click on photo for enlarged view.)

Put the chains back where they came from. Pull the axle back until the "banjo" tensioner bolt assembly fits onto the rear end of the frame. (Click on photo for enlarged view.)

Tension for both pedal and motor chains is important. The motor chain, which is adjusted after the pedal chain, is easily adjusted by turning the Allen head motor tensioning screw in and out. The pedal chain is adjusted the way BMX bikes are done: loosen both axle nuts, move the rear wheel forward or rearward, and retighten the axle nuts. A broom handle-sized dowel works to pry between the frame and the tire. On bikes with fenders, this doesn't work unless you turn the bike upside-down (not practical). For this reason, Charger bikes also have a "banjo" bolt chain adjuster that goes on the right axle before the two lock washers and nut. The "banjo" allows chain adjustment by turning a nut (after the axle nuts and brake housing-to-frame nut are loosened). With the pedal chain nearly the right tension, lock down the left side with the wheel cocked to the left slightly. Then, tighten the banjo nut on the right to both straighten the wheel and tighten the chain tension.

Once the pedal chain is set, this is a rare adjustment. However, you should check the motor chain tension regularly. It should not be too tight or too loose (about 1/2 inch of movement at the middle), and ride no closer than a sixteenth to eighth of an inch from the pedal chain. We emphasize chain tension and alignment because broken chains are a pain to replace (usually fail if they are too tight or catch on the adjacent chain), and loose chains that come off can get damaged and possibly damage the torque sensor. (PLEASE NOTE: If the Allen head screws holding the torque sensor in place become loose, this could cause the pedal chain to come in closer contact with the motor chain, causing problems. There must be 2 washers between these Allen head screws and the torque sensor plate, and we also recommend "LocTite".)

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