Electric-Bikes.com

Problem: My drive belt broke.

To install a drive belt requires that you remove the rear wheel. The procedure for removing the wheel is described and pictured at: http://www.zapworld.com/changetire.htm

Without any kind of abuse or maladjustment, the Zappy belt will last a year or more of constant riding. Four conditions lead to premature belt failure: maladjustment, "free spinning" abuse, sprocket misalingment, and maladjusted sprocket pin.

Maladjustment means your belt is too tight or too loose. When properly adjusted, you can press midway between the motor sprocket and wheel sprocket and deflect the belt 1/4" to 1/2".

Free spinning abuse is where you keep the power on when you bunny hop or jump off a curb. When the rear wheel gets airborne under power, it has no resistance and spins much faster. When you land again, it SNAPS back to your actual speed.

Sprocket misalignment is when the motor and wheel sprockets don't line up properly. Turn your Zappy over and look along the belt line while rotating the rear wheel. Does the belt want to run up the side of the wheel or off the outside edge? If so, make sure that both adjusting "snails" on the outsides of the axle are adjusted the same. If sprocket misalignment still happens, adjust the motor position so it's sprocket is 1/4" from the inside edge of the painted frame.

A maladjusted sprocket pin causes your Zappy to make a clicking noise and causes a wear pattern on the inside edge of your belt. Check the retaining pin that holds the drive sprocket to the motor shaft. If it's not pounded in enough on the "valley" side, you'll get a clicking sound as the belt hits it. The correct tools to tap it in a bit are a 3/32" punch and a ball peen hammer. In a pinch, you can probably get away with a blunted nail and carpenter's hammer. We suggest investing in the tools required to keep your Zappy working forever.

Order an extra belt and carry a few tools with you. Then, a roadside belt change is no problem.

Problem: My Zappy suddenly stopped working! When I squeeze the yellow throttle switch, absolutely nothing happens. I've check the battery and it's charged.

With luck the problem will be just a loose wire. You need to check the controller and wires to it. Remove the footplate from your Zappy and look at the Printed Circuit Board (PCB) at the rear of the battery compartment. You'll see that various wires connect to the PCB. If any are disconnected, or loose, that's the problem. Reconnect the loose wire. If they don't fit snugly, use a pair of pliers to carefully squeeze the end-of-wire connector a little. Now try pushing it back on again. Tight? Good.

It that doesn't work, use a Volt-Ohm Meter (VOM) to check continuity through the throttle switch. Set your VOM to measure resistance. Either electricity goes through easily (low resistance) or it doesn't (high resistance). Here's an easy way to check. Next to the big black cube (relay) is a terracotta-colored plastic connector with two heavy wires bending over and down into the PCB. Connect your two VOM probes to the bending wires (one probe to each wire). Be careful. The battery is still connected so unpredictable things can happen if you touch any other parts on the PCB. While watching the meter, flip the throttle switch on to verify that low resistance happens. If it does, the throttle switch is OK. If not, verify the PCB is working by pressing the tip of a screwdriver across the two heavy wires. You're shorting the two like a properly-working throttle switch would. While "shorting", spin the rear wheel by hand (as though the Zappy were on the ground being kicked). It should "take off" spinning on its own.

The next easy part to check is the motor. You'll see 4 wires connected to one side of the PCB - a red and black pair from the motor and two black ones. Before disconnecting the 2 black ones, feel them with your finger. You'll notice that the outside one is smooth, while the inside one is rough. Be sure they go back where they came from. Disconnect them and the red motor wire using (needle nose) pliers. Grab the connector plug at the narrow "throat" near the wires. Next, hold the red motor wire with the pliers and momentarily touch it to the outside PCB connector where the smooth black wire was attached. Watch out! You'll see a spark and the motor will jerk the bike. It can be exciting if you're not prepared. If the motor jumps to life, it's OK. That leaves the PCB as the only other piece untested. Order a new one ($36) and swap it with the one you have.

About Us || Contact Us