Currie Technologies manufactured electric scooters in 2002 - 200? under the three Pacific Cycle labels: Schwinn, GT, and Mongoose. The following directions will be helpful for many of the scooters sold under those labels. Placing the scooter on a stool or bench (as pictured above) makes it easier to access the screws and nuts.
Although I use a 1/4" ratchet driving a hex-head bit, most folks will use a simple 5mm Allen (hex) wrench to loosen and remove the three motorbolts. If the chain doesn't come off the motor's pinion gear as you remove the motor, you may need to reach in with your fingers to slip the chain off the gear. Although the motor wire is still attached to the sccoter, you can carefully set the motor to the side or atop the scooter.
On the right (motor) side, remove the 5mm hex screw that stabilizes the motor plate. On the other side of the scooter, remove the brake cable's clamp nut -- and then the screw holding the brake assembly to the frame. (It's that silver screw/washer in the right-hand photo with the thumb tip pointing at it.)
After removing the 10mm cable clamp nut and washer, pull the spring off the "tit" on the brake lever and pop the clamp bolt out so it hangs free. Now you can remove the 4mm screw holding the brake assembly to the frame. Use an 8mm box/open wrench to hold the nylock nut in place while removing the screw. Once it's free, you'll see another "tit" sticking out to the right that, during re-assembly, fits under the black brack housing.
Using a 15mm wrench, loosen and remove the axle nuts. The kick stand will drop right off. Notice the absence of washers.
Under the nut on the right/motor side is the axle retainer which helps keep the axle from sliding backwards. After removing the retainer, the wheel will slide right off. (On some scooters, the read deck is supported by struts that fit over the axles. If so, you'll need to bend them outward momentarily while you slide the axle back. After removing the wheel, the brake cable and motor are left attached to the scooter.
Removing the brake housing requires that the two nuts locking together are removed. First, break the outermost nut free from the inner one and remove it. Then, remove the inner nut that holds the housing to the wheel. The rightmost picture shows the inside of the band brake.
To remove the brake drum and sprocket from the wheel hub, place the sprocket over the jaws of a bench vise to hold it in place. Sometimes an oil wrench will free the brake drum; at other times, a "cheater" bar may be required. I bent my old, poor-quality oil wrench while doing this.
A few smacks with a hammer and punch freed the drum enough that the oil wrench freed it completely. See those two holes in the drum (rightmost photo)? That's where I placed my punch as demonstrated in the leftmost photo).
Once the brake drum is removed, simply grab the wheel/tire and unscred it from the sprocket.
After moving the tire and tube to a "mag" wheel, screw on two nuts on each side of the axle just finger tight against the bearings. Then tighten the two nuts together to lock them in place. Put the new wheel onto the sprocket (still clamped in the vise), and screw in clockwise (normal). Then do the same for the brake drum. Tighten both. The final tightening will come with use.
Remove the wheel from the vise and install the motor plate. Note that the hole in the center is ovalized, so you can move the motor/pinion gear mounted on it toward and away from the axle, thereby adjusting the chain tension. Look closely and you'll see the wear marks where the nut was originally tightened. Do likewise.
Place the brake housing over the axle and snug the first nut against the housing. Put on the second/spacer nut. Tighten them later once the motorplate is secured. Be sure that the brake drum's (brasse-colored) inside edge aligns with the inside edge of the (black) brake housing. If not, swap around nuts of different widths to get proper alignment.
Tire liners are advised. Cut a standard 26" tire liner in half and trim to a rounded end. Then, to avoid carving a cresent cut into your new tube, feather the liner tips. I use a Dremel.
Put the wheel onto the scooter with the drive chain dangling on the hub near the spokes. Secure the motor plate to the frame. Secure the brake housing to the frame. (Remember, the brass-colored "tit" fits beneath the brake housing. Loosely attach the brake cable to the brake lever. Then squeeze the brake lever closed, grab the brake cable with a set of pliers about 1/4" from the lever, and tighten the brake lock bolt/nut to secure it. Now that motor plate and brake housing are properly aligned, tighten the nuts next to the brake housing. Secure the axle nuts. The tab on the kickstand goes into the axle slot in the frame. Put the drive chain back onto the sprocket, pull a piece of it away from the sproket, and work that piece up to where the motor's pinion gear slips under it. Screw in one motor bolt to hold the motor in place. Then, install the other two motor bolts, and secure all three. Before taking it for a test ride, check the chain tension. It should not bind as you rotate the wheel all the way around. Likewise, if it's too loose (1/2" or more of play), loosen all nuts and screws securing the rear wheel and slide the motor plate forward (away from the axle) to take out the chain slack.
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