Welcome to Electric-Bikes.com

Owner’s Manual for ElectriCruizer DX and double motor kits:
http://www.zapworld.com/customer_service/dx_manual.html

Problem: Something is obviously wrong here (like a bad noise from the motor, or melted connectors). How do I get a replacement part?
Answer: If you're within your one-year warrantee period, contact ZAPWORLD.COM's Warrantee Department (707/824-4150) for a Return Authorization Number. Write the RA# on the outside of the box you're using to return the defective part. With the part, include a note with your address and a problem description (like "Bad noise from motor"). Mail to ZAPWORLD, Warrantee Department, 117 Morris Street, Sebastopol CA 95472, USA. ZAPWORLD.COM promptly responds to warrantee problems - usually turning around the replacement or repaired part within two days of receipt.

If beyond the one-year warranty period, contact ZAPWORLD.COM's sales department (or us) to order a replacement part.

Problem: The throttle switch interferes with the front gear shifter. I downshifted to the lowest range and then couldn't shift back up.
Answer: Try mounting the throttle switch just below the brake lever so it's convenient to reach with your index finger but out of the way of the shifter.

Problem: The throttle switch won't fit under the brake handle because my gear shifter is there.
Answer: Mount the throttle switch opposite where the directions suggest and use your thumb (instead of index finger) to activate your ZAP.

Problem: I click the throttle switch and nothing happens.
Answer: Click the push-button switch at the left (port) side of controller to enable the throttle switch.

Problem: The motor runs backward.
Answer: The heavy wires between the controller and the motors are swapped. Usually one pair of wires has a white dot on each connector to indicate they go together.

Problem: The motor slips or doesn't engage the tire properly.
Answer: Make appropriate adjustments to the bracket or engagement feature (pushrod or cam) so the roller presses into the tire another 1/8 inch.

Problem: The drive roller is wearing down my narrow rear tire.
Answer: Electric motors have lots of low-end torque that helps cyclists accelerate quickly, but the roller will slip if there's not enough tire to grab hold of. We offer two suggestions: 1) Mount a wider tire. We recommend a 1.5 inch wide tire with a smooth tread down the middle. 2) Pedal up to speed before switching on your ZAP.

Problem: I live on a steep hill. When I ride up it, sometimes the ZAP totally stops for a little while.
Answer: If you live on a steep hill, consider getting a Super Hill-Climber System. Although a ZAP will easily pull you up an average hill, say as steep as a freeway overpass, some hills are so steep that they overload the system and trip it's circuit breaker. After several seconds, it will "un-trip" so you can try again. If you find pedaling with the system still causes overload, consider getting a Super Hill-Climber System which provides extraordinary hill-climbing ability at the expense of top speed (reduced from 18mph to 12mph). Only Zap Electric Bikes and Scooters offers this specialty item.

Problem: The plastic clamp of the throttle trigger won't fit my handlebar. My handlebar is thicker than most (1" rather than 7/8" diameter).
Answer: The throttle trigger is built for a standard 7/8" diameter handlebar. If your bicycle has a thicker handlebar, you can replace the screw that holds the clamp together with a zip-tie/tie-wrap. If your handlebar is thinner, wrap some tape around the bar before installing the plastic clamp.

Problem: The battery wobbles back and forth.
Answer: First, be sure the battery is pressed firmly into the battery tray. If it still wobbles, make sure the hose clamps holding the tray to the bike frame are tight.

Problem: My gears don't shift right anymore. The shifter seems to get stuck in the highest gear that I use.
Answer: You may have installed a tie-wrap around the cable that shifts the gears. Look at each tie-wrap to ensure you didn't accidentally tie the cable to the bicycle frame. (Many of us have done this one!)

Problem: My tire went flat - in a strange way. It seemed to be sliced along the side.
Answer: Your tire may have been rubbing against the motor. When you install your motor, be sure the rim/wheel is "true", that is, it doesn't wobble back and forth. Then slowly turn the wheel around making sure the tire doesn't contact the motor. If it does, make the proper adjustments or you'll ruin another tire.

Problem: On my first ride, the battery pooped out long before the ten miles I was expecting.
Answer: When new, lead-acid batteries require a few charging cycles before they reach their full capacity. Try taking a few short rides first. And be sure to charge up promptly after use.

Problem: No directions came with my PowerLight. How do I install it?
Answer: Start by viewing pictures of the details of a PowerLight mounted on an ElectriCruizer. The part of the handlebars that fits vertically into the bike's frame is called the stem. (The frame part is called the head tube.) At the top of the stem is a screw that, when loosened, allows the stem to be removed from the head tube. Once the stem is removed, the top part of the head tube is a wide nut. Unscrew and remove the nut. The PowerLight's metal bracket has a large hole that fits over the top of the head tube; it's held in place by the large nut you just removed. You may have to disconnect the front brake cable and insert the cable through the slot in the PowerLight's metal bracket before reconnecting. After putting the handlebar stem back into the head tube and tightening, zip tie the PowerLight's wire in place with enough slack that the handlebars can turn all the way, back and forth. The PowerLight's wire will reach the 12-volt auxiliary line coming from the underside of the battery tray. You may already be using this line to charge your battery. (For unisex/women's style bikes, an extension piece is needed to reach the battery in back.) Zip-tie the two connecting plugs with a bit of slack. Then you can easily connect/disconnect the PowerLight. With the light disconnected, you can plug the charger into the auxiliary line.

Occaisionally, the PowerLight bracket doesn't fit over a bike's headtube. The hole in the bracket is too small to fit over the threaded part. The reason is that some handlebar stems (especially on mountain bikes) are thicker than standard. Simply get a half-round metal file and go round the inside edge of the bracket hole with it. After a while, it will fit over your headset.

More commonly, the bracket and/or light interfere with something on the bike. Make appropriate adjustments by bending the bracket (up or down) or by mounting the light above or below the bracket. That PowerLight is your most important safety feature after dark. Be safe by being seen.

Problem: I've mounted a carry bag onto the handlebars. Only problem with this is that it hides the light a little. I want to mount the light a little lower -- where the front reflector is on the bike would be the perfect spot... the problem is how to mount it there?
Answer: As you probably noticed, the mounting bracket is just thin, bendable metal. If bending it a bit doesn't clear the bag, fashioning a new bracket from scrap metal to fit should work fine.

Problem: The battery doesn't seem to fit into the tray with the cover on, but is insecure without it. What should I do?
Answer: When the battery is enclosed in its cloth bag, it will fit in the battery tray. Yes, it's a tight fit and the first few times seem unduly tight and stiff. After experience, it seems more "normal". Insert the front edge of the battery at the front of the tray first, then push the battery straight down into the tray. Once inserted, the bag flaps velcro-attach to the sides of the tray; the strap goes underneath. You'll then find the battery is quite secure.

Problem: There doesn't seem to be enough heel clearance. When pedaling, my heel hits the motor.
Answer: Your heel is probably glancing off the motor because you are pedalling "duck-toed", i.e. with your toes pointing out. Consider it a reminder to straighten your foot to the correct cycling position (feet pointing straight ahead). Improving your cycling movements may also improve you overall posture.

Problem: I have a mono-stay bicycle. How can I mount the motor?
Answer: Some people have custom-mounted ZAPs on their mono-stay bikes, but it involves drilling holes in the frame for the mount. We don't recommend doing this because it may affect the strength of the frame. Unfortunately, every manufacturer who makes mono-stay frames has a different design concept, so we really can't make a universal adapter for mono-stays.

Problem: How long before I'll need to replace the rear tire because of the wear on the rubber. I don't really notice much wear on the tire, but there is a lot of 'black stuff' underneath the motor, on the chain guard. In the bike shop, the guy there said that the black stuff is the rubber from the tire, being worn away by the motor roller. So, I'm just wondering about how many kilometers/miles a tire should be good for. And how much the replacement tires are, and whether I need to buy it from you or can I get it locally. Also, because of the chain, it doesn't look like an easy job to replace the tire -- is it something best left to a bike repair shop to do?
Answer: I just replaced my rear tire after nearly three years of use (Rob Means, 7/96 - 5/99) - because the sidewall gave out. The tire still had another year of tread left. So, don't worry about tire wear. When you do need a replacement, ZAP tires cost $25, but any tire with a smooth surface for roller contact will work. With someone or something holding up the bike, removing/replacing the rear wheel is easy. After loosening the axle nuts, just pull down on the deraileur or chain to allow the wheel to pop out.

Problem: Occasionally the chain falls off my ElectriCruizer (at the front, near the peddle). I took it into a bike shop here and they were completely stumped as to what the cause is. They said nothing appears to be bent and the chain doesn't need to be tightened. It hasn't fallen off so far this week, but last week it fell off at least once on every trip. I took it into the bike shop on Wednesday and they adjusted it a little but it still fell off again the next day. It would occasionally fall off when I went over bumps on the road (such as sewer grates or streetcar/train tracks). Any ideas on what might be causing this and what the solution may be?? Have you heard of this problem before?
Answer: ZAP says that they normally remove two links from the chain before shipping ElectriCruizers to prevent just such a problem. It's possible yours slipped through without the modification.

Problem: As I ride, the hand grip slips away from the gear shifter. Is there a glue I can use to keep the hand grip from sliding?
Answer: Try pulling the hand grip off, squirt hair spray inside, and quickly slide it back on. When wet, the hair spray acts as a lubricant to make the grip easy to slide on. Once the hair spray dries (at least an hour), it will "glue" the grip to the handle bar. For really wet or humid conditions, use 3M Fast Tack Trim Adhesive. Found at most hardware or automotive stores, it sticks so well you'll probably need to cut the grip off to remove it, and it's messy to work with.

Problem: The PowerGuage I ordered came without instructions. How do I install it?
Answer: You'll need to open the controller box to access the Printed Circuit Board (PCB). The controller box is black with several wires going into it. You'll need to lift the PCB out enough to see the terminals where the wires plug in. To do that, you may need to cut some zip-ties which hold wires in place near the box. Once the PCB is free, be careful not to pull too much. It has short wires to the main power (on/off) push-button switch. One edge of the PCB has a row of terminals where all those wires connect. At one end of the row of terminals is an orange/rust colored plastic connector. Already connected to it is the throttle switch wires. The two open prongs are where you plug in the fuel guage's connector. Be sure to feed the wire through the controller box hole before plugging the connector to the PCB. After carefully putting the PCB back into its place in the controller box, zip-tie wires into place that you previously release. (If you don't have enough zip-ties, get some from the electrical section of your local hardware store.) If you ordered the handlebar mount version of the PowerGuage, run the wire up to the handlebar (or any place convenient) and mount the guage there. Otherwise, use the sticky strip to mount the PowerGuage on the controller box.

Problem: After a couple years of use, my old-style metal drive roller seems worn and slips a lot when wet. What can I do?
Answer: Upgrade your roller to the new "stone" roller. Order a new roller from ZAPWORLD.COM or us (shipping is free) . Request new roller pins. When you get it, you'll need to disassemble the motor assembly using a 25 pt. Torx driver. The drive roller is held to each motor with a "roller pin". A roller pin functions like a cotter pin. Use a narrow, straight-line punch about 3 inches long to punch the pins out. (I got a 3/32" x 3 1/2" punch at Orchard Supply Hardware for $5.) Pry the roller off each motor using two screwdrivers opposite one another. Before assembly, dab a little Vasoline, grease, or anti-sieze into the drive roller ends. (It'll make prying the roller off easy next time.) As you press the drive roller onto one motor, be sure to align the hole in the motor shaft with the drive roller slit. Although re-using the old roller pins usually works fine, using new roller pins adds a little insurance that you'll never "shear a pin". When you reassemble the motor assembly, we suggest you tighten the 25 pt. Torx screws "as tight as you can by hand" if you're using a screw-driver shaped driver (rather than a ratchet).

Problem: Where do I look for Zappy problems?
Answer: Try the Zappy owner's manual and trouble-shooting guide: http://zapworld.com/customer_service/zappy_manual.html#trouble
Find tire & belt changing at http://www.zapworld.com/changetire.htm

Problem: The battery charger's red light never comes on. According to my son, the battery is losing charge; it does not do what it used to do. I measured the voltage across the battery terminals and it was 12 volts. Any advice?
Answer: As a diagnostic check, plug the charger directly into the battery. If the red light still doesn't go on, the charger is bad. If the light goes on, check the connection of the charging port wires (both black - one smooth and one ribbed) to the printed circuit board. If those wires are connected, the PCB may be bad. Don't use your ZAPWORLD.COM product until this problem is fixed because you'll run down the battery without a way to charge it (which, of course, is bad for the battery). If you've used the battery, take the battery to an auto part store and ask them to "load test" it. Their device will indicate whether the battery's recovery rate is good or bad. If bad, contact ZAPWORLD.COM so they can get a new battery and charger out to you.

Problem: When I tried to install the custom front drive DX bracket on the steering tube, it won't fit over the threaded part. What's up?
Answer: The cable hanger bracket is the top part of your bracket assembly. It's silver in color and has a 1" diameter hole. The hole fits over the threaded top of your bicycle's head tube (steering column). All trikes have a 1" threaded top. Mountain bikes have a 1 1/8" threaded top (to deal with the added stress). If the cable hanger bracket in your kit doesn't fit your bike, get one with the larger hole from your local bike shop.

Question: The battery connectors don't work so well on my pre-1999 system.
Answer: The old-style red and black plastic Anderson connectors could get hot under unusual conditions. ZAP is now using Motorola connectors that don't experience the same contact problems. To upgrade, see the battery harness upgrade procedure.

> My mother's bike (Lillian Watkins) has been
> working fine until now. When you are riding and push the switch,
> absolutely nothing occurs. No noise (like last time), no energy. We have
> brought the battery in to be tested. We were told that it is charged. What
> do you think my next step should be??

Question: My SX system (or Zappy) suddenly stopped working! When I squeeze the yellow throttle switch, absolutely nothing occurs. I've check the battery and it's charged.
Answer: With luck the problem will be just a loose wire. You need to check the controller and wires to it. On the older model, the controller box is attached to the rack in front of the battery. If you have the newer model, simply pull the battery out and remove the plastic plate behind it from the battery tray. Now you'll see the PCB (printed circuit board) that various wires connect to. If any are disconnected, that's the problem. Reconnect the loose wire.

It that doesn't work, use a Volt-Ohm Meter (VOM) to check continuity through the throttle switch. Set your VOM to measure resistance. Either electricity goes through easily (low resistance) or it doesn't (high resistance). Here's an easy way to check. Next to the big black cube (relay) is a terracotta-colored plastic connector with two heavy wires bending over and down into the PCB. Connect your two VOM probes to the bending wires (one probe to each wire). While watching the meter, flip the throttle switch on to verify that low resistance happens. If it does, the throttle switch is OK.

The next easy part to check is the motor. You'll see 4 wires connected to one side of the PCB - a red and black pair from the motor and two black ones. Before disconnecting the 2 black ones, feel them. You'll notice that the outside one is smooth, while the inside one is rough. Be sure they go back where they came from. Disconnect them and the red motor wire using (needle nose) pliers (grab near the wires). Next, hold the red motor wire with the pliers and momentarily touch it to the outside PCB connector where the smooth black wire was attached. Watch out! You'll see a spark and the motor will jerk the bike. It can be exciting if you're not prepared. If the motor jumps to life, it's OK. That leaves the PCB as the only other piece untested. Order a new one ($35) and swap it with the one you have.

About Us || Contact Us