How
electric bikes perform depends on many factors. The most
important factors are listed here with the (generally speaking) most
important at the top:
- battery capacity (measured in volt-amp-hours)
- terrain (number and incline of hills)
- e-bike speed (range at 10 mph is 8 times as far as at 20 mph)
- wind conditions (going 10 mph against a 10 mph headwind feels like 20 mph to the bike)
- pulling a trailer (which is like pulling another bicycle)
- correct tire inflation (under-inflated tires slow you down)
- weight of rider and baggage
- motor/controller/drive system efficiency
As you can see, battery size ranks at the top.
With a pair of big car batteries mounted on a trailer, you can go for hours.
To double your range, double the size of your battery pack.
Many, if not most, e-bikes come with two 12-volt 12Amp-Hour batteries which will take an
average rider 8, to maybe 10, miles over moderate terrain.
System efficiency ranks at the bottom because most systems are 85% to 95% efficient. The speed
you go makes a big difference in how far you go.
All else being equal, range
is a function of either 1) battery capacity (amp-hours X volts) or 2)
speed and ease of recharging (high-power chargers provide lots of
miles in less than one hour). There is a direct relationship
between battery capacity (amp-hrs) and both weight and physical size
(total volume). Commonly used sealed lead-acid batteries weigh
twice as much a NiMh batteries of the same rating and four time a Lithium
Polymer battery. For hill-climbing, expect about 3 feet of
elevation gain for every volt-amp-hour. For example, a stock battery pack
(two 24-volt, 12 amp-hour batteries) will take you up about
800 feet without pedaling (3 feet X (24 X 12) = 864 feet). Another way to
compare performance is the ability to gain elevation. Here are
some anecdotal estimates:
-
ZAP DX system with 13-lb
battery can gain about 450 feet of elevation.
- Currie U.S. ProDrive
system with 20-lb battery can gain about 800 feet of elevation.
- Betterbike Model 20 with two
20-lb batteries can gain about 1600 feet of elevation.
- EV Global 36-volt bike
with 20-lb battery can gain about 800 feet of elevation.
All else being equal, speed
is a function of motor (watt rating) and controller. Most
electric bike motors are capable of higher performance characteristics than
the controller allows.
[Beware: Some e-bike
advertising touts their high-power motors (e.g. 600 watts), but only
deliver 400 watts through the controller.]
As for power, consider that Lance
Armstrong's average speed
over a 2-hour ride is 20.5 mph. That's just over the legal
speed of e-bikes. Lance expended about 1/2 horsepower, or 373
watts, continuously. Most e-bike motors operate continuously in the range of 300 - 600
watts. Most e-bikes, therefore, will make a "Lance Armstrong" of difference in
getting you down the road and up the hill!
Regenerative braking doesn't
yield much "juice" back into the battery. Even the
hi-tech regen on electric automobiles gains less than 10% of the
original charge. Therefore, given a choice of either regen or
freewheeling, you will generaly get more range with freewheeling - unless you
have a hilly route.
Due to the nature of batteries, you can
double the battery life expectancy by discharging only 50% of
capacity instead of 75%; you get 6 times the battery life at
30% capacity usage per cycle. Think of battery lifetime as having
$1000 in the bank and withdrawing a dollar with each 30% disharge
cycle -- and withdrawing $10 every time you deeply (85%) discharge the battery.
Rules of Thumb:
-
Get a battery pack that goes at least twice the range you usually expect to ride.
- Range is proportional to battery size; twice the battery size = twice the range.
- For every two miles you go, plan on about one hour of charging and about one
cent of electricity.
- When speed increases, range decreases even faster; 1/3 faster = 1/2 the range.
- A 400-watt motor takes an average rider up all but the steepest hills (but
weak controllers can limit performance).
- Two 12-volt, 12 amp-hour batteries will take an average rider 10 miles at
15 mph or up a hill that's 800 feet tall.
"Bargain
Buys" Most electric bikes priced
less than $500 at big box retailers and on-line are aimed at the
kid/teen/toy market. They generally lack the performance and
durability that people want and expect. Also, parts and service
can be problematic with both big box retailers and on-line
vendors. We urge you to invest in an e-bike that will serve you
(and others) for many years. If you choose to buy a "Bargain" anyway,
read our quality control and final adjustment guidelines.
Remember, if it's poorly constructed and you can't get repair parts,
it's likely to become land-fill material.
Diagnose and fix e-bikes.
First off, distinguish
between the bicycle and the electric drive system. If you're having
problems with a bike part, your local bike shop can help. Or
you can find lots of useful fix-it information at:
If you start with our
diagnostics page and successfully isolate your problem, you'll know
whether you can fix it yourself or want a service company to fix it.
To fix it yourself, get parts from a parts retailer.
Building e-bikes (D-I-Y).
Do-It-Yourselfers may want to
consider a set of plans for the Slipstream
Electric Bike. Others will want to delve into
motors, controllers, batteries and gearing at our D-I-Y
introduction.
Then check out the online
users group, especially the archives which are searchable for
your keyword interests. Also helpful is the book Electric
Bicycles: A Guide to Design and Use, William C. Morchin, Henry
Oman, ISBN: 0-471-67419-2, Paperback, 190 pages, November 2005,
Wiley-IEEE Press, $39.95,
http://www.wiley.com/WileyCDA/WileyTitle/productCd-0471674192,miniSiteCd-IEEE.html
Resources
for riding (trailers, how-to, etc.)
Buying
a bike.
Fixing
a bike.
Commuting
by bike.
Learning to
ride a bike.
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