Welcome to Electric-Bikes.com
Parts for Electric Scooters and Bikes
If you need parts to fix your electric scooter or bike, your options include:
your local LEV retailer may have the parts you need;
- check our list of quality repair shops.
- get the needed part (see below) and take it to a local electric motor shop (such as sew/vacuum shops, automobile electric shops, etc.) and ask if they'll install it for you.
Partial List of Parts Suppliers for E-bikes and Scooters
parts for over 50 brands of scooters, including "orphan" scooters that no one else supports: call Light Electric Vehicle Technologies at 208-478-5388. Be prepared with identifying labels on the scooter, a clear description of the part(s), and precise measurements.
parts for Currie/Schwinn/GT/Mongoose Scooters and Electro Drive Kits: www.evdeals.com, http://www.electricrider.com/currie/parts.htm
parts for many scooters including Currie and EV Global Scooters, Eboarder / Zappy / Tomb Raider, X Shock / Cute-Nomad, City Bug E2, www.electricscooterparts.com
parts for City Bug: http://www.evrider.com/Sales/parts.asp?p=420
parts for HCF 707 (Xport SLX), http://www.evrider.com/Sales/parts.asp?p=707
parts for Merida electric bikes, call Light Electric Vehicle Technologies (LEVT) at 208-478-5388
parts for Rad2Go E-10: http://www.sdscooters.com/SDScootersAccessMain.html, http://www.electricrider.com/rad2go/parts.htm
parts for Vego scooters: http://www.electricrider.com/vego/parts.htm
parts for Xootr eX3: http://www.xootr.com/xootr/naccessories.shtml
parts for Boreem-class scooters and gas scooters: http://store.partsforscooters.com/elscpa.html
Order Spare Parts
--- In zappy@yahoogroups.com, KT Roughneck <ken@d...> wrote:
If you ride a lot, I highly recommend having some spare parts on hand for those items that wear out. You know you'll wind up using them at some point.This is right on the money and cannot be emphasized enough. If you love your scooter or cycle and use it a lot, you should absolutely have spare belts, chains, and tires on hand. Anything else that wears as well.
This will save you tons of down time waiting on parts to arrive. Especially if the manufacturer is overseas.
I have spares for nearly all my rides. I use them all the time. If I ever order a part, I always order an extra or two to save on shipping.
-KT Roughneck, Outlaw Turbologist, http://visforvoltage.com
Ready to modify your scooter for better performance? (Well, maybe not that much!)
Many stock parts can be replaced with superior parts available from www.electricscooterparts.com. (Carpenter's rule-of-thumb: If it breaks, build it stronger the next time.) They also offer a variety of parts for do-it-yourself modifications.
EVdeals offers after-market products to improve performance and usefulness, especially for for Currie/Schwinn/GT/Mongoose Scooters and Electro Drive Kits: www.evdeals.com
If you ever want to upgrade performance, Powerpack Motors offers high performance brushless motors that are compatible with the PowerCat Tiger and all Currie, Schwinn and Lashout electric scooters. The external controllers can run at 24, 36 or 48 volts (36V and 48V provide higher torque and speed). http://powerpackmotors.com/
SD Scooters offers BMC replacement motors for Currie/Schwinn/GT/Mongoose Scooters and Electro Drive Kits: http://www.SD-Electric-Scooters.com/Scooter-Motors-DC.html
ThunderStruck Motors offers performance upgrades: http://thunderstruck-ev.com
Frank the Metal God designs and builds battery trays, motor mounts, brackets, top plates, skid plates, or anything that you can think of. Can do repairs on metal parts - welding, straightening, modifications, etc. Frank the Metal God, Portland, Oregon, 503-288-3184, http://www.users.uswest.net/~fvwssmm/index.htm, make initial contact through email at fvwssmm@attbi.com
For a large variety of sprockets, check http://www.sdp-si.com/. You just have to know the outside and inside diameters plus number of teeth; they make to order with fast turnaround.
Here are the three working solutions to increasing scooter speed:
1) Most people who want faster speed with safe operation ultimately do a "real" upgrade. This includes upping the battery pack voltage, upgrading the controller to a higher voltage, higher amperage model, and possibly upgrading motor to one that can handle the higher voltage levels as well. The advantage of this approach is that it eliminates the turbo button all together, offering a smooth acceleration up to full voltage with the new controller. The drawback is that this can be a significant investment, however if you learn about the used parts market, there are excellent deals that can be had, allowing you to upgrade for very little cash outlay overall.
2) The alternate approach is to get the heaviest duty relay for the job, and make sure that you have another heavy duty relay in the circuit as well,wired to a very accessible kill switch on the handlebars. Hacking your relay also helps. Grind off the lip holding it together, clean up the innards, and use the right kind of grease to insure smooth as possible operation. As your relay can now be disassembled at will, you can open it and inspect it from time to time for pitting and other damage. A file or some sandpaper do wonders on abused relay contact surfaces. With this approach, if your turbo relay gets welded shut, you can quickly hit the kill switch and cut the power to the motor by cutting power to the main power relay. This is less safe than the first option, but significantly more exciting, as there is nothing quite like a runaway scooter (if only for a couple of seconds). Using a latching relay for the main power cutoff is a very nice way to go.
3) The "ain't got no scratch" approach is to get a hold of a used "heavy duty" automotive relay, a used surplus battery out of some emergency lighting, and an old horn switch, for free or next to it, and just wire it all in. Some people leave out the relay and rig a direct pedal switch or something. These people must be invulnerable as this is just insane and a total fire hazard. Even with a relay, this approach is much less safe than the first two options. When the relay welds itself shut, the rider will have to find a good place to bail and crash.
I've used all three approaches and my comments come from experience. I've melted many a relay and caused a couple of small wiring and controller fires. I don't recommend the third approach obviously, but the second approach works well for the budget minded. The first approach is the best and safest option of the three. I have never had any controller damage due to the use of a turbo button bypass, but I'm sure it is possible. All the more reason to upgrade to a higher voltage controller as in option 1.
-KT Roughneck, Outlaw Turbologist, http://visforvoltage.com, 866-872-8901 - toll-free message center
Manuals, User Guides, Assembly Instructions, and Notes for Electric Scooters and Bicycles (click here)
