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Go-Hub Motor Kit (for bikes and trikes)

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Go-Hub Motor Kit

The Go-Hub motor kit mounts to most bikes, including the $150 eBay Huffy. Note the center stand that's used for extra stability. Unless the user is careful, that 30-lb. battery pack can cause the bike to tip over.

The hub motor comes mounted on a 26" wheel using heavy guage (14g) spokes. Directly connected to the hub motor is the controller (small black box). Also shown is the throttle and power wire to connect to battery pack.

Regardless of what the directions say, mount the hub so the red arrow points in the direction the wheel rotates. In addition to the power indicator, the throttle includes a battery charge indicator (LOW and FULL).

Attention: Due to the high torque forces on the fork dropouts, we recommend a strong fork (steel, not aluminum) and tight axle nuts.

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The controller (black box) mounts to the steering tube. At the back of the controller is a metal heat sink. You may wish to insert some rubber or other material to prevent scratching the paint. The Topeak pack (MTX Trunk Bag DX, Art. #TT9615B) is kept in place by guide rails on the bottom of the rack (Explorer Tubular Rack with Spring Clip, Art. #TA2029B) and that yellow clip in front. The pack includes a handle at the top and a shoulder strap that clips on. The power line to the controller snakes into the pack past the keyed on/off swithch. Storage pouches on the sides and top are each about 2" deep.






The Topeak pack neatly holds the three batteries which are daisy-chained with a safety fuse in line (with orange wires in the left photo). Once the plywood panel is in place atop the batteries, there's space for the charger.



For more Go-hub information, visit:
http://www.largoscooters.com/go-hubkits.html

Installation instructions for the Go-Hub kit:
http://www.largoscooters.com/go-hubinstructions.html

Note the minimum spacing required on the front fork. Between the dropouts (at the axle) the spacing must be at least 3 and 3/4" (3.75") or 100mm. Spacing above the axle - for a full four inches up the fork - must be at least 3" or 75mm. These spacing are required so the hub motor doesn't contact the fork. In this photo, the fork gap is about 3.6", plenty of space for the hub motor. Also, the dropout gap where the axle goes through must be 10mm wide to accomodate the Go-Hub axle. (The installation instructions suggest using a file to remove the paint from the dropouts when the axle doesn't quite fit. You can also use a 10mm grinding wheel in a Dremel or other small high-speed rotary tool. Don't file away metal; that weakens the dropout and may lead to metal failure and probable injury.)

A thumb throttle is stock. However, a twist throttle is also available for the 36-volt and trike versions. A cruise control feature is a nice extra; for safety, be sure to get the safety brakes with it.

Go-Hub Motor Kits:
  • Go-Hub 408 for regular bikes (19 mph).
  • Go-Hub 409 for 24" trikes (12 mph).
  • Go-Hub 408/48V 48-volt version for regular bikes (more torque and 25 mph for about $100 more).
    [Editor's note: The 48-volt version includes a 48-volt charger and four batteries rather than three. The stock set of four 9Ah batteries fits snugly in the Topeak bag, just like the standard three 12Ah batteries of the 36-volt system (picured above). If you go the 48-volt route and need extra range, get the 12Ah batteries for an extra $25; it's heavier and not as sleak looking, but offers 35% more range. Due to the higher speeds above 20 mph, the 48-volt version is not street legal.
Available from:

[Editor's note: I've heard that one man goosed his 36-volt Go-Hub kit with 60 volts. After putting on 180 miles/week for over a year, it was still pushing him down the road at nearly 30 mph. This obviously voids your warranty.]

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New owners made these comments:

Dear Rob.

IT HAS ARRIVED!. Thank you VERY much for all your work packing it up. It is great. It is now all on the bike and going fine. I'm adjusting my bike a little to suit the motor etc so by tomorrow all the extra bits should be done as well.

Larger higher pressure tyres, got rid of quick release rear hub for stronger bolted rear axle and a few other things. Eventually, I will cut out the frame and weld in a box for the three batteries to be installed inside the frame to centre the weight into the middle of the bike. A job for next year. The [center] stand is also very good and works well. A great idea.

The rear box with the sliding pack holds the batteries securely, and after the batteries are moved it will make the bike a very practical thing, becoming a large boot.

Thank you very much. Regards, Rodney.

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Hi Rob,
I received the kit in good condition. Last Sunday during a lull between our winter storms I managed to install the kit. Total install time for me was about three and a half hours. The rim arrived untrued and pretty wobbly so I will have my local bike shop true the rim. I had to have my front brake assembly readjusted as well as the new rim is wider than the old. The battery cables in the case were disconnected however that was not a problem for me as I know a lot about batteries from working on solar panels. Some of your other purchasers of this kit may need to be told how to hook up the batteries. The kit works well when it is fully installed. My first use of the kit was to take care of some tasks like grocery shopping. My route to the grocery store was all uphill. With the kit installed the ride felt like it was all downhill. I was in my highest gear the entire way with the wind blowing in my face....pretty cool. I have found the best way to use the go-hub motor is to get the bike moving then apply some motor, then upshift the bike while applying the motor between each upshift. In this way I was able to get up to speed rapidly and save battery power. The best thing about the motor in my opinion is that I still have my bike, which is the primary reason I chose a kit versus another solution. I had the feeling of customizing my bike which is very enjoyable. - Wolf

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