Click on photos for enlarged pictures.
The power pack
is easily removed by pushing the handle/latch forward. It's a
friction fit that requires about five pounds of pressure to release.
requires entry of a PIN (personal Id. number) to activate the
system. Select one of five power-assist levels (0 assist
through 4 times your effort). Press the red button for 2
seconds to de-activate the system.
One place to
attach a rear rack is at the seatpost quick release. To fit, he
left strut needs to be filed at the 10 o'clok position (when looking
at the strut from the left). Assembly order when inserting the
quick-release screw from the right is right strut, seat post clamp,
left strut, seatpost clamp, nut.
asembly is 6" tall, so the lowest seat position is 36" off
the ground. That's about right for someone 5'0" tall.
The highest position is 42", good for someone 6'2".
Since the seat tube is only 8" deep, you may need to cut off the
end of the seat post with a tube cutter.
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adjusters on each cable (brakes and gear shifting) make adjusting easy.
Nexus 7-speed hub means you'll never get a bent deraileur. The
brake cable can be release from the brake mechanism by pulling the
brake thingy and twisting the cable clamp.
restraint (with the two nuts) keeps the axle from moving (which
changes the adjustment of the chains).
shifter is in gear '4', the red dots should align. If not,
adjust the cable length. This can usually be done using the
barrel adjusters at the shifter on the handlebar. Both sides
have an extra washer or two to ensure the axle nuts fit tightly
without jamming on the inside.
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Prior to installing the rear rack, file down the edge of the left (port side)
strut so it won't rub the seat tube paint when installed. Both
struts are secured by the quick release - left strut in the middle of
the seat clamp and right strut just to the right of the clamp (before
the quick release "washer").
Be sure to adjust the position of the magnet (if necessary) to pass close by the sensor (within 2 mm). Click on the photo for a close-up view.
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After removing the cover panel on the left side, you'll find the battery connector
circuit board (the battery, when installed, connects to this board).
Mounted on the board is a 12-volt light port (as mentioned in the
Shop Manual that comes with the Charger bike). Use a size N coaxial
power plug (5.5mm O.D. x 2.5mm I.D.) to plug into the port.
Any 12-volt headlight (and/or tail light) up to 20 watts will work.
A Malibu garden light works well. When the PIN is keyed in and
the Charger system powers up, this port becomes active. Put a
switch on your headlight (or on the wire) to turn off the light when not needed.
Here's a report
from a user in Grand Rapids, MI (December 2004):
I had this bike
for a few weeks and then decided to void my warranty by doing (what
else? I am an electronic engineer for over 18 years!) what I
knew would void the warranty. I opened up the guts of the machine.
The circuit boards
are both conformal coated (a hard protective coating on the circuit
boards, either sprayed on or immersion dipped). Besides water
protection, this is also very helpful to keep the surface mount
components firmly attached to the circuit board (vibration can be an
issue). I know my riding around town is very hard and I have
had many mechanical connections come loose over a period of several
weeks (mostly the aftermarket stuff I put on...Lights, Speedometer,
etc.). If you are going to ride the bike and be pretty hard
on it, it is probably a good idea to get some Loctite (blue) for the
screws, nuts, and bolts. After I put this stuff on, I
haven't had any problems.
electronic engineer who designs automotive modules, I was very
impressed with the amount of obvious thought that went into the
design of this unit. Things like proper spacing on 120 VAC
circuits, selection of a proper PCB material (FR-4, not those junk
paper board materials like CEM3 or CEM1 or XXP). Fuses on high
current connections (from the batteries).
In case anyone is
wondering, yes the bike functions when it is cold. I haven't
noticed anything going wrong with the unit. The couple of
components I could identify on the circuit boards by number, are -40
to +85 C rated, which means that things like the microprocessor will
function correctly at ambient temperatures of -40. I won't ride
a bike at that temp!
Riding in snow
absolutey sucks! I wouldn't recommend any high speed riding in
snow, but I did manage to make it around town when the snow was up
past the bottom of the pedals. Without electrical assisstance,
I would have never made it.
The bike makes it
up every nasty hill we have here in Grand Rapids and although it is
not the same as having a car, the shorter commutes don't work out to
all that much more time. It takes me about 12 minutes to make
it to work when I used to make in about 7-10. Distance traveled
is 2.9 miles up/down 3 pretty nasty hills. When I have to go
downtown, it takes about 1/2 hour where I used to make it in 12-15
minutes. Distance is about 6.5 miles. However, there are
other costs. My time spent on the bike versus a car payment,
insurance, gas, maintenance, etc. I have already noticed the
difference. I know I am saving money.
rules. I don't know what type of success you'd have selling
them on Ebay, but the 'junk' I've seen posted on Ebay from China is
ridiculous. I had two orders cancelled on me, they claimed
"battery problems". Yeah right. The other bikes
I looked at were just too expnsive for my needs (i.e. e-bike and
another one that was over 2 grand!).
for an April 2005 update from the same author.
for the rear wheel removal procedure.
to return to Charger